ICONOCLASSE
Dépêche des Arts et ModesBefore the Birkin Was Born, There Was the Basket Bag
by Thea Elle | July, 05, 2025 | Style Guide
This season’s love for raffia and straw reflects Jane Birkin’s enduring influence. Both her humble basket and the Hermès bag that carries her name remain icons of style. Wicker and straw bags are leading the Summer 2025 trend, bringing seaside ease and vintage romance. From oversized woven totes to structured straw clutches, they evoke a nostalgic yet modern feel, pairing effortlessly with linen or tailored pieces. Each year, the basket bag returns, reinvented yet familiar — a tribute to Birkin’s legacy of understated elegance.
Jane Birkin in the 1970s with her basket bag
The Birth of a Legend
The story begins in 1983 on a flight from Paris to London. Jane Birkin, juggling her straw basket, spilled its contents in the aisle. Seated beside her, HERMES chairman Jean-Louis Dumas asked why she did not own a proper handbag. She explained that she could not find one that was both elegant and practical enough for her needs. On an airsickness bag, Dumas sketched what would later become the Birkin, now one of the most iconic and elusive handbags in the world. While the Birkin remains a permanent fixture in fashion, the basket bag’s return each summer feels like a tribute. It recalls the carefree energy that first inspired a legend.
Straw’s Seasonal Appeal
Luxury brands are reimagining the basket bag with a distinctly high-fashion edge. Labels like LOEWE, PRADA, FENDI, and SAINT LAURENT are elevating raffia totes with smooth leather straps, hand-stitched logos, and structured bases, transforming a rustic market staple into a symbol of relaxed glamour. From the Amalfi Coast to the streets of Tokyo, these designs blur the line between runway sophistication and Riviera ease.
This revival feels especially timely as it balances sustainability with luxury. Raffia’s lightweight, biodegradable, and artisanal qualities resonate with a growing demand for responsible fashion. Yet beyond its eco appeal lies a deeper connection to Jane Birkin’s legacy. Every woven FENDI tote and painted LOEWE basket carries a hint of her carefree rebellion, a reminder that true style often begins with simplicity.
One Icon, Two Evolutions
The enduring appeal of the Birkin bag goes beyond simple branding or rarity. While the basket bag suggests a sense of leisure, the Birkin symbolizes achievement, seamlessly transcending cultures, generations, and even investment portfolios. It has established itself as both a fashion icon and a financial asset, with resale values that often surpass those of the stock market. However, its power is not solely economic. The Birkin exudes an aura of quiet authority, making the wearer feel instantly elevated. Where the basket bag hints at carefree summers, the Birkin conveys a sense of legacy.
Basket bag nostalgia is in the air while the Birkin remains the ultimate upgrade.
The Difference Is in the Craft
The most significant distinction between the two lies in their craftsmanship. While basket bags possess a certain artisanal charm, the Birkin exemplifies precision and structure. Each HERMES Birkin is handcrafted by a single artisan and requires between 15 to 20 hours of meticulous work. The materials are sourced with great care, from soft Clemence leather to the rare Himalayan crocodile. Every stitch is hand-set, every edge is carefully burnished, and each lock is polished to a mirror finish. This isn’t just a bag; it is a legacy in the making.
Luxury is a Language
Fashion communicates through references, and the return of the basket bag this summer goes beyond simply pairing well with linen. It tells a story of Jane Birkin on the Riviera, her straw basket filled with oranges and sketchbooks, highlighting the moment when design met desire at 30,000 feet. While the basket bag captures the carefree spirit of Summer 2025, the Birkin transcends seasons, standing as a timeless symbol of style and longing.